Solid Oak

Installation

Solid Oak Installation

Always follow the specific manufactures instructions when installing a wood floor. Instructions are usually enclosed within the wood floor packaging.

Solid wood floors can not be used as a floating system and require full fixing to the subfloor. On a wood subfloor we recommend the use of a power nailer or porter nailer. On a concrete subfloor we recommend a flooring adhesive.

When nailing a solid wood floor
1 First make sure the subfloor is in good condition, any loose floor boards should first be secured. If you wish to run the new flooring in the same direction as the original floorboards a 6mm ply board may be required first.

2 Each plank of solid wood flooring should be secretly nailed. Each nail should be fired through the tongue of the board, at least three nails per board or however many is required to secure the board to the subfloor.

Solid wood floors thicker than 18mm can be nailed to a joist or batten as they are classed as a structural board. The board should be nailed evenly to the joist/batten using a secret nailer (port-o-nailer).

We recommend gluing the ends of the boards where they join in case of movement in the floor or joists. The end of the board often sits between the joist but is supported by the rows either side of them.

Concrete subfloors
Solid wood floors need to be fixed to a concrete sub-floor using a wood flooring adhesive. To achieve this the following should be carried out:

1 If building work has included the laying of a new concrete floor, it can take up to a month for each 25mm or 1 inch to dry out enough to safely lay a wood flooring on it. Therefore, if you have a 4 inch screed, it will take 4 months to fully dry out. This can be rectified by the applying a liquid Damp Proof Membrane.

Damp Testing for wood flooring
Many builders test a subfloor for dampness with a prong damp tester. This shows the moisture content of the surface of a concrete floor, however a concrete slab is gives off moisture as the concrete cures for a longer time than most people expect.

The quickest way to check for moisture is to tape a number of clear plastic sheets to the subfloor using duck tape and wait 24 hours. If any of the bags mist up then a proper damp test would be required.

2 Make sure the subfloor is level, any unevenness should be leveled using a recommended screed or leveling compound.

3 A liquid Damp Proof Membrane (DPM) should be applied to the subfloor. Once complete, the flooring can be installed using a recommended adhesive.

Damp Proof Membrane (DPM)
When installing a wooden floor, it is important to protect it against damp and moisture. This can be achieved with a DPM. Solid wood flooring requires a liquid DPM to be applied to the floor. This usually needs two layers, the first painted along the room and the second across the room. The LDPM is available in two colours to help with an even coverage.

Grading

Solid Oak Grading of our Wood flooring

Prime/A.B. Grade Wood Flooring is a mix of A.B grade please see list below

Classic Grade Wood Flooring is mill run grade which is  a mix of B.C.D grade with small proportion of A grade.

Country Grade Wood Flooring is a mix of CDE grade

Antique distressed Grade Wood Flooring is a mix of DEF

Grades A-F described
A—without knots and sapwood, uniform colour, sometimes small knots up to max.2mm allowed.
B—with knots up to max.2-4mm, no sapwood, harmonic-natural colour;
C—with knots up to max.6 cm, sapwood max 15%, natural colour;
D—with knots up to 8cm, and max.30% sapwood, allow a wide range of colour variation.
E — with knots up to 10cm, allow cracks up to 30cm in the middle of the boards (max 5mm wide) and end cracks max 25cm (max 8mm wide), allow a wider range of colour variation
F — with crack less than 15-20mm wide in the middle of the boards, longest crack shorter than 80%of the board length

UNDERFLOOR HEATING

Engineered wooden floors can be installed and guaranteed over underfloor heating, however manufactures installation instructions must be followed to validate the guarantee.

We source our wood flooring from a number of different manufactures, therefore each board can have its own warranty which may vary between factories. We will be happy to give advice when choosing the right board for your job.

If you are fitting over underfloor heating, it is important that the engineered wood flooring is fixed tightly -so there are no gaps between the board and the underfloor heating.

If the underfloor heating is laid in a screed, then the wood flooring would be glued to the subfloor using an appropriate flooring adhesive.

A liquid damp proof membrane is always recommended over a new concrete subfloor.

If the underfloor heating is laid in between wooden joists, the product we recommend is a multiply 20 mm thick structural board, fitted using a port-o-nailer to the joists. Where the underfloor heating prevents the nail to go into the joist, a face-fix (tung tight) screw can be used to fix as near to the original fixing place as possible. This gives an even fixing of the wood flooring to the joists across the entire room.

Thinner boards can be laid over underfloor heating. We would recommend a multi-ply board as this can be stuck to the floor using a wood flooring glue or can sometimes be floated using a low tog underlay, depending on the manufactures warranty.

Solid wood floors are not guaranteed over underfloor heating.

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